A zipper may seem like a minor part of your jacket or tent–until it fails! Zipper failure is eventually unavoidable. However, there are steps you can take to prolong zipper, and therefore gear life.
Cleaning
To clean any piece of gear, always follow cleaning instructions on the item. Follow manufacturers' recommended cleaning method on a regular basis.
Care begins with cleaning, as dirt is the main cause of zipper problems. Fine dust gets embedded into the teeth and ribbon of the zipper. This dust then acts as an abrasive, wearing out the zipper over time. Avoid or reduce this wear by washing your gear, ensuring that your zippers work better for a longer period of time.
Maintenance
The next step involves treating your zippers with a lubricant like Gear Aid "Zipper Cleaner & Lubricant". The Gear Aid product is excellent for tents, jackets, and sleeping bags. Don’t use wax to lubricate your zippers because dust will stick to the wax and then the zipper will wear out faster. If you have a drysuit or wetsuits, consider using the Gear Aid "Zipper Lubricant Stick".
Allow treatment to dry, then store as you normally do.
Careful Use
Care extends to how you treat your gear in use, too! Make sure the zipper pin is fully inserted into the zipper box at its base before zipping up. Try and make sure draft flaps or other fabric stays out of the path of the slider as you zip. If a zipper slider becomes stuck—stop! Be gentle trying to get it unstuck: in most cases, using force can make the problem worse.
Replacing a Zipper Slider
Here's where we can help!
It is time to replace a zipper slider (the little mechanism you pull to open and close the zipper teeth) when:
- It wears out from use so that it no longer pulls the teeth together as it should.
- It becomes corroded due to exposure to saltwater, sweat, or corrosive chemicals.
- The pull tab comes off.
- It is crushed, broken, or otherwise incapable of performing its duties.
Replacing a Full Zipper
It is time to replace a full zipper when:
- The box at the base is missing.
- The pin at the base is missing.
- There is damage to the teeth (molded or coil).
- Teeth are separating from the zipper tape.
- Zipper tape is damaged.
Cleaning a Puffy Jacket
To clean any piece of gear, always follow cleaning instructions on the item. Follow manufacturers' recommended cleaning method on a regular basis.
It's best to wash down jackets in a front-loading washer (without an agitator which can cause damage), and use a gentle, non-detergent liquid soap like Nikwax Down Wash. If you can customize the spin cycle, the goal would be to spin out as much water as possible before moving to the dryer.
Prevent Leaking Down in the Wash
If you're worried about losing too much down in the wash and having feathers leak all over the place, you can cover holes in your puffy jacket with a tape like masking tape, packing tape, or painters tape. Please don't use duct tape or something that has an extreme adhesive if you plan on getting your garment repaired. Removing the residue can be time intensive and add to our repair costs, and sometimes we end up needing to cut out pieces of garment where sticky tape residue is too adhered to remove. We do have the ability to replace missing down in your puffy jacket.
Drying a Puffy Jacket
Tumble dry your down jacket on low heat. Throw in a couple of tennis balls, wool dryer balls, or even balled up socks—this helps re-loft, or un-clump, the down. Drying may take longer than you expect, however it's important that all the down gets completely dry. If your jacket has synthetic insulation hang dry or look at the tag on the garment for drying instructions.
Cleaning Outerwear
To clean any piece of gear, always follow cleaning instructions on the item. Follow manufacturers' recommended cleaning method on a regular basis.
All outdoor related clothing needs a little cleaning, some pieces more often than others. As a general rule, follow these tips:
- Wash synthetic items in cold water, and hang items to dry—this prevents shrinkage, pilling, and melting.
- Zip zippers closed, and close velcro tabs, to prevent snagging on other items.
When drying waterproof outerwear, a little caution never hurts. Hanging your gear to air/drip-dry is safe—remember to turn out hoods or pockets that might have collected water. If using a dryer, tumble dry on a warm, gentle setting. Lower temperatures will help revive the water repellent finish. Higher temperature drying might run the risk of delamination of seam tape and bonded construction.
Restoring Water-Repellency (DWR)
To renew coatings or waterproofness to jackets, first clean the jacket with a product like Nikwax Tech Wash. To improve the jacket’s water shedding ability—after cleaning—use a product like Nikwax TX Direct (either spray-on or wash-in). Again, following all of the manufacturer’s instructions is key. If using an iron is recommended, then do so, no matter how much it sounds like sacrilege.
Cleaning a Tent
To clean any piece of gear, always follow cleaning instructions on the item, and/or check with manufacturer recommendations. Parts like zippers tend to last longer with more frequent washings.
Clean your tent at the end of your backpacking season, before you store it for the next one. Also, cleaning after a particularly dusty, gritty adventure will make a big difference, as sand-sized particles are very good at wearing down parts.
Your tent can be washed in a front loading washer using a non-detergent liquid soap like Nikwax Techwash. See care instructions on your item for washing and drying instructions. Washing your item regularly will prolong its life and help your zippers work better. If you cannot find access to a large enough washing machine for your large capacity tent, you may need to hand wash it in a bathtub.
Hang your tent to drip/air-dry. Make sure it is fully dried before storage.
Tent Poles
When deconstructing your tent after use, make sure to disassemble the poles starting from their centers so the elastic cord within them is folded evenly and doesn't stretch out disproportionately in time. Avoid breaking down tent poles starting at one end.
If you have a problem with a tent pole, we recommend talking with the nice folks at TentPole Technologies.
Storing a Tent
Proper gear storage is a key component to gear care, and can result in many more years of use than you might otherwise get. The first priority is to make sure your gear is dry. Any piece of gear stored wet is guaranteed to be smelly, but the dangers of mold and delamination are far worse and much harder to see until it is too late.
Second, is to clean the gear if needed following the manufacture’s instructions and/or our tips above. Once clean and dry, fold neatly or hang tents.
Careful Use
Be patient with your zippers! Longer zippers might be harder to reach at points, but mindful zipping will help out in the long run! Try and make sure draft flaps or other fabric stays out of the path of the slider as you zip. If the slider becomes stuck—stop! Be gentle trying to get it unstuck: in most cases, using force can make the problem worse.
Cleaning a Sleeping Bag
To clean any piece of gear, always follow cleaning instructions on the item, and/or check with manufacturer recommendations.
You can wash your sleeping bag by hand in a bathtub. If you wash your sleeping bag in a washing machine, avoid top-loading machines that have agitators, and use warm/low temp water or a delicate wash cycle if possible. Use a gentle, non-detergent liquid soap, and rinse thoroughly.
Tumble dry your bag on low heat (if it's too hot in there, fabric or synthetic insulation can melt!). Throw in a couple tennis balls, wool dryer balls, or even balled up socks (this helps re-loft, or un-clump, the down). This part may take longer than you expect, but it's important that all the down gets completely dry.
Storing a Sleeping Bag
Proper gear storage is a key component to gear care, and can result in many more years of use than you might otherwise get. The first priority is to make sure your gear is dry. Air out your sleeping bag after using it. Any piece of gear stored wet is guaranteed to be smelly, but the dangers of mold and delamination are far worse and much harder to see until it is too late.
Second, is to clean the gear if needed following the manufacture’s instructions and/or our tips above. Once clean and dry, fold neatly or hang. Hanging uncompressed sleeping bags, or storing in a large (garbage can sized) cotton bag, will prevent a loss of loft. Loft is the amount of insulation that your bag has and is directly related to how warm you’ll be.
Careful Use
Be patient with your zippers! Longer zippers might be harder to reach at points, but mindful zipping will help out in the long run! Try and make sure draft flaps or other fabric stays out of the path of the slider as you zip. If the slider becomes stuck—stop! Be gentle trying to get it unstuck: in most cases, using force can make the problem worse.
Cleaning a Backpack
To clean any piece of gear, always follow cleaning instructions on the item, and/or check with manufacturer recommendations. Parts like zippers tend to last longer with more frequent washings.
Frequently, backpacks can have stiff components like frame sheets, inserts, suspension systems, and/or hip belts that are not easy to remove. If you are able to remove these parts, it might be possible to wash your pack in a front-loading washing machine, after consulting manufacturer recommendations.
If you're not able to remove these parts, a bathtub is a good way to hand wash your pack. Fill the tub with warm water and use a gentle, non-detergent liquid soap. Let your pack soak for about 15 minutes before gently hand agitating. An old toothbrush and soap can be used to clean zipper teeth, which tend to want to hang onto fine dust and grit from the outdoors. Likely, multiple rinses will be needed.
Allow your pack to dry naturally by hanging it (preferably not in direct sunlight, as UV light can degrade the fabric).
Odor
Our packs come with us on long, hot, sweaty, dirty adventures, and can start to smell like it, too! If you don't want to rediscover the aromas of last season's adventures when you pull your pack out of storage, give it a good wash before tucking it away. When a little extra help is needed, Gear Aid Revivex Odor Eliminator is a good product specifically designed to eliminate odor causing bacteria.
Storing a Backpack
Store your pack with all suspension straps loosened, either flat with nothing on top of it, or hang it by the handle usually located between the shoulder straps. Avoid storing your pack with tasty treats in it while you're away, as this tends to attract hungry critters. Rodent damage is a common issue we see come through our shop!
Before your next adventure, take a moment to assess the condition of your footwear. Look at the soles, exterior, lining, stitching, lacing and hardware. Check for potential issues like delamination of the soles, blown seams, or missing lace hooks. Don't wait too long to address these issues, because they get bigger over time.
Cleaning & Conditioning Footwear
Frequent cleaning and conditioning will give your footwear a longer, better life.
Use a stiff brush and cold water to remove dirt and debris from leather and fabric before any treatments or conditioning. It might be helpful to remove the laces to be able to get down into the tongue gusset. Go ahead and pull out the footbeds when you're done using your footwear so your hiking boots or trail running shoes have the ability to air out.
Conditioning and waterproofing looks different for different types of footwear construction: fabric, nubuck/suede/polished leather. It's always best to consult with the manufacturer or retailer where you purchase your footwear to make sure you are using the correct treatments.
Odor
We’ve all been there! Terrified to take off your boots as the smell might knock you, or your buddy, out. Never fear again.
Here’s what you can do. The first, and most often ignored, is to dry your shoes. Drying any type of shoe with heat is a big no-no as heat will delaminate your soles. For soaking wet boots, remove the footbeds, stuff the shoes with crumpled newspaper, and swap out with dry as the first stuffing absorbs the water. Do this once or twice a day until boots are dry. Cleaning the inside of the boot and footbeds with a dilute solution of water and baking soda can help with smell, though be careful about using too much cleaning solution or water. For a quick fix you might consider Kiwi Fresh Force or Fiebing’s Fresh Feet, both are flowery smelling, and will mask stink for a time. For a more permanent fix try Gear Aid Revivex Odor Eliminator, as it will ‘eat’ the stink out of your boots.
Storing Footwear
Be sure to store your footwear in a cool, dry place. If left somewhere like a hot car in the summer, glues will heat up and things that need to be stuck together will get un-stuck... This applies to climbing shoes as well as hiking boots and Chaco sandals and other types of footwear.
For kayakers and rafters, Mountain Soles offers replacement of latex gaskets (seals) on dry suits, dry tops, and dry bibs. We also repair tears or holes on Nylon and Waterproof breathable fabrics like Gore-tex. We do not install Gore-tex booties, only latex booties.
Latex gaskets are subject to premature deterioration if not cared for properly. Make sure you take good care of that new gasket we put on your drysuit! Always follow cleaning instructions on your gear, and/or check with manufacturer recommendations. Below, we offer you some tips on caring for and maintaining gaskets.
Gasket Care & Maintenance
1. Wash rubber inside and out with a mild soap (non-detergent) and water solution to remove all contamination from body oils, pollution, and lotions.
2. Apply a protectant such as (303 Protectant or Seal Saver Silicone) to the cleaned rubber both on the inside and outside of the gasket. If you are using silicone, make sure that is a food grade silicone that does not contain petroleum distillates or fluorocarbon propellants.
3. Store your dry suit, jacket, or bibs rolled up in a plastic bag (zip-lock type) to minimize the air flow around the gaskets. This allows the 303 Protectant or Seal Saver Silicone to better protect and condition the latex rubber.
4. You can extend the life of your natural latex rubber gaskets by minimizing contact with petrochemicals, ozone, ultraviolet light (sunlight), and heat. The more you try to protect your gaskets, the longer the life.
Cleaning a Drysuit
You'll know when it's time to clean your drysuit. Use a front-loading washing machine, gentle non-detergent liquid soap like Nikwax Tech Wash, and lots of low temperature water. To improve water shedding ability—after cleaning—use a product like Nikwax TX Direct (either spray-on or wash-in). Hang to dry. When a little extra help with odor is needed, Gear Aid Revivex Odor Eliminator is a good product specifically designed to eliminate odor causing bacteria.
